Homer Hopper Part 6 – Final Assembly

Homer Hopper Part 6 – Final Assembly

Difficulty: level_1

Time Required:

One morning or afternoon (For the entire project)

Background:

This is part 6 in the series documenting how to create your own Homer Hopper.  If you haven’t seen the introduction yet, please check it out.  In this post, we’ll be finishing up with the assembly of all components and fitting the hopper assembly into the bucket.

Posts for this project:

Introduction
Part 2: Bucket Modifications
Part 3: Wooden Base
Part 4: Mill Box
Part 5: Funnel Panels
Part 6: Final Assembly (This post)
Part 7: CAD Drawings

Tools required:

*You’ll want a bench top unit so you can hold the hopper assembly with both hands while you shape it to fit in the bucket.

Material recommended:

You’ll need all of the pieces you’ve built thus far and the bolts and washers mentioned in the introduction post

  • 4x 1/4-20 x 0.75″ length stainless socket head cap screws or hex head
  • 4x washers for 1/4″ bolts ($1-$5 for screws and washers depending on where you shop) *You don’t have to use stainless for the screws or washers, I just got stainless so they didn’t rust while being stored outside in the garage.

007a-Homer Hopper - Components

How to do it:

007b-Homer Hopper - front view

Go ahead and orient the bucket on the base.

007a-Homer Hopper - View 4

Then install the mill with the driveshaft sticking out the side window (obviously).

007c-Homer_Hopper_base_with_c-sink

007c-Homer_Hopper_hopper_base_no_c-sink

Then, secure the mill with the bolts going through the wooden base and bucket.  Since your holes probably aren’t precision located, get each bolt started in each hole, then tighten them up.

Shape the hopper panels

007f-Homer_hopper_shaping

Keep dropping the hopper assembly into the bucket while sanding more material off of the tips of the panels until you get a nice fit.  The angle will be almost perpendicular to the base, but with a slight draft.

007f-Homer_hopper_panel_fit

Once you have a nice fit with the panels, it’s time to start shaping the mill box to fit in the bucket.  The bottom of the bucket has a radius all the way around the bottom, so you’ll need to shape the bottom corners until you can get it all to sit flat.

007e-Homer_hopper_grain_shield_fitted

Your finished corners should look something like the picture above.

007f-Homer_hopper_base_seated

Keep shaping until the entire assembly sits completely flat on the bottom of the bucket.

Final steps

007f-Homer_hopper_glue_grain_shield

The last steps are to glue the seams in between the hopper panels (as in one of the above photos) and to glue the grain shield in place.

Wait for all glue to dry!!!!

The last thing you want is for wet glue to drip into your valuable grain mill or get into your grain.

Up next…

CAD drawings and closure

Missed a post?

Introduction
Part 2: Bucket Modifications
Part 3: Wooden Base
Part 4: Mill Box
Part 5: Funnel Panels
Part 6: Final Assembly (This post)
Part 7: CAD Drawings

Thanks for your interest in this project!

 

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Consider making a small donation or share on your favorite social hangout.

Homer Hopper Part 5 – Hopper Panels

Homer Hopper Part 5 – Hopper Panels

Difficulty: level_1

Time Required:

One morning or afternoon (For the entire project)

Background:

This is part 5 in the series documenting how to create your own Homer Hopper.  If you haven’t seen the introduction yet, please check it out.  In this post, we’ll be making the hopper panels.

Posts for this project:

Introduction
Part 2: Bucket Modifications
Part 3: Wooden Base
Part 4: Mill Box
Part 5: Funnel Panels (this post)
Part 6: Final Assembly
Part 7: CAD Drawings

Tools required:

*You’ll want a bench top unit so you can hold the hopper assembly with both hands while you shape it to fit in the bucket.

Material recommended:

1/8″ Hardboard

The bare minimum size you would need is a sheet that is 9.5″ x 19″, but you’ll be safe with a sheet that is roughly 12″ x 24″.  I’ll show a picture on how to lay out your cuts to make the best use of the material.

You’ll also want some wood glue.

CAD files & Templates:

The templates you’ll need to print out for this step are:

  • funnel_panel_front (2x)
  • funnel_panel_side (2x)
  • grain_shield (1x)

007e-Homer_Hopper_funnel_panel_front

You’ll notice the orange lines on the prints.  These are the theoretical profile for the bottom side of the panel.  Once assembled, you’ll be sanding these edges to fit your exact bucket.  You’ll find out at final assembly that not all buckets are created equal.  Cut out all of the panels at the maximum outside profile.  REMEMBER, it’s much easier to remove material than to add!

What we’re building here:

007e-Homer_Hopper_hopper_panels_installed

Video of the process:

COMING SOON!

How to do it:

Prepare the panels

First, take your cut out templates and lay them out on your board.  Below I’ve shown how to make the best use of your material, either densely packed or loosely.  As I mentioned before, if you pack them densely, you can get away with a piece of material that is 9.5″ x 19″, but if you want to give yourself room, just go with 12″ x 24″.

007e-Homer_Hopper_funnel_panels_on_12x24

007e-Homer_Hopper_funnel_panels_on_9.5x19

Once you have your panels laid out, go ahead and trace them on the board and cut them out with your jigsaw.

How the panels work

007e-Homer_hopper_side_cutaway

The panels have been sized so that they feed the grain in between the rollers and ideally would sit just below the top of the rollers.  There is also a grain shield that reduces the amount of grain not making it through the rollers.  Why is this not a perfect fit on the mill?  I wanted to allow sufficient clearance to allow for misalignment and make removing the hopper assembly fairly easy.

Cut and fit the panels

007e-Homer_hopper_side_cutaway_panel_highlight

Front and side panels

First focus on these panels highlighted above.  This is one of the most time consuming parts of this build.  You’ll want to have your mill sitting on your work surface and then place the mill box on top of it so you can get an accurate placement of both components while you fit the panels.

007e-Homer_Hopper_funnel_panel_front

This image is repeated again to show that you should go ahead and put a slight angle on the edges where the orange lines are for all of the hopper funnel pieces.  I would start with something like 60 degrees.  You can remove more as you test fit the pieces.  It will probably end up somewhere between 45 and 60 degrees.  This is where your belt sander will come in handy.

Next, try to set all four panels in place so that they fit properly with each other.  You’ll probably need to start making some fine adjustments here by sanding more on the edges.

Once all of the panels fit nicely with each other, you’ll want to provide clearance for the rollers.  Go ahead and put your roller mill inside the mill box.  Hold the panels in place and spin the rollers.  If you hear or feel the roller rubbing on the panel, just take that edge to the belt sander until you have sufficient clearance.  You don’t need a paper thin gap, just enough so that when the hopper assembly is misaligned, it doesn’t rub.  And in use the rollers will clearance any material that doesn’t need to be there anyway.  Plus, you could use a little extra fiber in your diet.

007e-Homer_Hopper_hopper_panels_installed

Once the fit of the panels is to your liking, you will be ready to secure them in place.  I used a bit of wood glue and then tacked them in place with some small tack nails.  You can leave the nails in or remove them.  Or if you are really patient, go without nails, support the panels and let it sit overnight for the glue to dry.

Grain Shield

This one is a little quicker to fit.  Simply keep sanding it until it drops in like the picture below.

007e-Homer_hopper_grain_shield_fitted

 

Don’t glue this one in just yet.  We still need to shape the upper panels to fit in the bucket and also the mill box corners.  Yes, I know this picture already shows them shaped.

Up next…

Final Assembly and fit to bucket

Missed a post?

Introduction
Part 2: Bucket Modifications
Part 3: Wooden Base
Part 4: Mill Box
Part 5: Funnel Panels (this post)
Part 6: Final Assembly
Part 7: CAD Drawings

Thanks for your interest in this project!

All files have a 2″x2″ square on the print so that when you print out on paper, you can measure to make sure your printer was printing to scale and at the correct aspect ratio.

The intention in making these files downloadable and free is for people to make this themselves or modify/improve the design to suit them.

This download is available through the Creative Commons Attribution-Non-Commercial license.

If you are interested in this for commercial purposes (i.e. you want to make money on my effort), I’m flattered, but please contact me first.

Be excellent to everyone!

Click on the download icon to agree to these terms and enjoy!

Homer Hopper Part 7 - CAD Drawing

491.98 KB 361 downloads

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Homer Hopper Part 4 – Mill Box

Homer Hopper Part 4 – Mill Box

Difficulty: level_1

Time Required:

One morning or afternoon (For the entire project)

Background:

This is part 4 in the series documenting how to create your own Homer Hopper.  If you haven’t seen the introduction yet, please check it out.  In this post, we’ll be making the mill box.

Posts for this project:

Introduction
Part 2: Bucket Modifications
Part 3: Wooden Base
Part 4: Mill Box (this post)
Part 5: Funnel Panels
Part 6: Final Assembly
Part 7: CAD Drawings

Tools required:

Jig saw Drill (optional) Table saw or miter saw (to cut the angles) Wood clamps (optional) Sanding device (belt sander, handheld, sandpaper)

Material recommended:

I started with some 3/4″ x 4″ pine I had from another project.  You’ll need about 26-30″ worth.  You’ll also want some wood glue or wood screws if you are too impatient for the glue to dry or don’t want to mess with clamps.

Link to CAD files & Templates

What we’re building here:

007d-Homer_Hopper_mill_box_top_assembly

Video of the process:

COMING SOON!

How to do it:

You can print out the drawings or just use them for reference and measure out the old fashioned way. mill_box_adjust_side mill_box_drive_side mill_box_front_back Cut the wood to size.  You’ll want to use a miter saw or table saw to cut the angles.  The windows are obviously clearance for the adjustment knobs and the drive shaft.

007d-Homer_Hopper_mill_box_sides_2  007d-Homer_Hopper_mill_box_sides_1

I pre-drilled holes so I could use some wood screws to hold it together while the glue dried.

007d-Homer_Hopper_mill_box_top_view  007d-Homer_Hopper_mill_box_right_view  007d-Homer_Hopper_mill_box_left_view 007d-Homer_Hopper_mill_box_front_view  007d-Homer_Hopper_mill_box_top_assembly

One thing you’ll notice is that with this mill box, it won’t fit over the thumb screws of the Monster Mill.  I actually replaced the thumb screws with some set screws in order to minimize the external features.  If you still like the thumb screws or you forgot or don’t have the set screws, you’ll need to cut clearance holes for them.

Up next…

Hopper Panels

Missed a post?

Introduction
Part 2: Bucket Modifications
Part 3: Wooden Base
Part 4: Mill Box (This post)
Part 5: Hopper Panels
Part 6: Final Assembly
Part 7: CAD Drawings

Thanks for your interest in this project!

 

Like this post?

Consider making a small donation or share on your favorite social hangout.