007c-Homer_Hopper_base_with_c-sink

Homer Hopper Part 3 – Wooden Base

Homer Hopper Part 3 – Wooden Base

Difficulty: level_1

Time Required:

One morning or afternoon (For the entire project)

Background:

This is part 3 in the series documenting how to create your own Homer Hopper.  If you haven’t seen the introduction yet, please check it out.  In this post, we’ll be making the wooden base.

Posts for this project:

Introduction
Part 2: Bucket Modifications
Part 3: Wooden Base (this post)
Part 4: Mill Box
Part 5: Funnel Panels
Part 6: Final Assembly
Part 7: CAD Drawings

Tools required:

Jig saw
Drill with 5/16″ drill bit, maybe a 3/8″ or 1/2″ for starter holes for saw
Sanding device (belt sander, handheld, sandpaper)

Material recommended:

5/8″ plywood, big enough for 14″ diameter. You can go thinner or thicker.  Use scrap wood or find a 24″x24″ square for maybe $10 at the hardware store.  I used some nice birch, but only because I had it around.

Link to CAD files & Templates

 

What we’re building here:

007a-Homer Hopper - Components

Video of the process:

COMING SOON!

How to do it:

First, print out the entire Hopper Base print or just the Window Template only.  I’ve put centerlines on the print so you can line them up with the center of the base more easily.

007c-Homer_Hopper_hopper_base_outline_image

First cut your wood to size.  Basically a 14″ diameter circle.  Optional is the flat cut on the side.  This is to allow easier access to the drill chuck when setting up.  I started with a full round circle and then modified it later.  I prefer the flat side.

007c-Homer_Hopper_hopper_base_window_template_image   007c-Homer_Hopper_window_predrill_far

Next you’ll mark out the window and through hole locations on the base.  I drilled 5/16″ holes to give me more clearance, since my woodworking skills are not CNC accurate.  Also, go ahead and drill some starter holes for the jig saw.  Just make sure you choose a size larger than your saw blade.

007c-Homer_Hopper_hopper_base_no_c-sink  007c-Homer_Hopper_base_with_c-sink

Now you have a choice.  Do you want counter sunk holes or do you not mind the bolt heads sticking out.  I wanted the hopper to be able to sit completely flat on the ground or shelf when I stored it.  And if the bolt heads are sticking out, you run the risk of putting scratches on your storage shelf.

007c-Homer_Hopper_router  counter sunk hole

If you don’t mind the bolt heads sticking out or you don’t have a router, you’re done.  Otherwise, get out your router.  I just used a 7/8″ square bit set at a plunge depth of 3/8″.  That size and depth gives you enough room for the 1/4″ washers and the bolt to be completely recessed with room to spare.  It will take a steady hand to create counterbores with the router and it may not necessarily be the safest.  If you have a drill press, more power to you!

Up next…

Mill Box

Missed a post?

Introduction
Part 2: Bucket Modifications
Part 3: Wooden Base (This post)
Part 4: Mill Box
Part 5: Hopper Panels
Part 6: Final Assembly
Part 7: CAD Drawings

Thanks for your interest in this project!

 

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