*”mile an-hour” is the colloquial way to pronounce “miles per hour”
I was first introduced to this tape when I started working in IndyCar racing as a DAG (Data Acquisition Guy). When setting up the pits and timing stands, we would use it to tape down the various cords we would need to run along the ground so that people wouldn’t trip over them. It is a cloth-like tape that can be easily torn by hand and comes in different colors. The best thing about it though is that after sitting outside for 3 days in the sun, when you pull it off, it doesn’t leave the sticky residue that you get with duct tape, electrical tape, masking tape, etc.
It got it’s name from gaffer’s in the entertainment industry using it for pretty much the same purpose. You can also see it on NASCAR racecars when they go out for qualifying. They tape off the grille and other inlets when they do a qualifying run to reduce aerodynamic drag, at the expense of cooling.
Where to buy Gaffer’s tape:
Racers supply store (most variety of color and best price)
Music store (the instrument kind, not the CD kind. If those still exist??)
*It’s typically about 3x the cost of duct tape, but in my opinion, much more useful. And keep in mind that sometimes, it the rolls have a lot more length of tape on them than duct tape or masking tape rolls.
Peel off a piece of tape, stick it on the fermenter and write on it with a marker.
Be careful however, the tape doesn’t absorb the marker fluid immediately and if you wipe across it, it could get on your fingers.
“N. or S.” is my Christmas Ale, Naughty or Spice. Cheesy name, but tasty brew! It should be carbonated in time for Thanksgiving! 38 is the batch number. Just a habit of mine and how I name them in my brewing software.
Peel off and re-apply
When transferring from your primary to your secondary, just peel off and re-apply to the secondary.
*Apply to a room temperature vessel. If you try to apply it to something cold, it most likely has condensation on it and the tape will not stick
No unsightly residue
“Can’t see the line, can you Russ?”
Same thing when transferring to your keg.
Visible enough in your keezer
**I do sometimes just write on the top of the keg with a Sharpie and wipe if off with acetone when I am cleaning the keg
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As long as it takes you to read this post and shop. Unless you are like me and it will require at least one spreadsheet and reading at least 5 reviews of each kit at 3 independent website.
Interested in learning to brew? Looking for a gift for your special Cotton Headed Ninny Muggins? Everyone needs to start somewhere, so I was going to give a quick breakdown of various starter kit types to help you get going.
Brewing your own beer? I mean hey, what is the deal with this?:
Everyone needs to start somewhere. I’ve heard many different phrases regarding brewing: “If you can make oatmeal, you can make beer” “If you can make macaroni, you can make beer”
I agree with those statements.
In picking out a beginning brewing kit, you need to take into account:
How patient are you? Beer isn’t done the day you brew it.
How good at cleaning are you? Nobody likes cleaning, but it is essential.
How much space do you have to store the equipment? Buckets and carboys take up space, so make sure you have a space to store them in when you are not using the equipment.
How well equipped is your kitchen? Starting in the kitchen is acceptable, but when you start going bigger, you’ll want to move outside.
Do you have a “phone a friend”? Knowing someone who has brewed before will be very helpful.
There are many kits available and many different ways to get into brewing. I will attempt to give a brief overview of a few popular options and list in my opinion, the pros and cons of each. With all kits, they should come packaged with an ingredient kit or at least be packaged with choices of a certain beer ingredient kit. The best advice I had when I started was to pick a kit for a beer that you like to drink. There is no sense in producing beer that you wouldn’t normally like anyway! I’m not going to go through the entire process of making beer, since there is a plethora of information on the internet.
Attention to cleanliness and sanitation
Be able to follow directions in the order they are supposed to occur
First you produce the wort and add yeast
Then you wait for fermentation to complete (7-10 days with the kits)
Then you bottle (1-2 weeks) It could be longer. Everything just depends…
Read as much as you can so that you understand what you are doing
I would call this The “Gateway” Beer Kit. This is probably the easiest way to make beer. This is the equivalent of the Easy Bake Oven for beer. You are simply mixing extracts with water and adding yeast.
Low effort entry to making your own beer
Kits are even found in liquor stores now
“Brew day” is maybe 45 minutes to an hour
Kits that come with plastic bottles will save you from exploding bottles
Could have beer in as little as 14 days
Lowest tech way to make beer
Only makes 2 gallons, which will probably go quickly
This is the way I started. Well the kit, plus a bunch of other stuff you can read about HERE. There are several variations of the kits. Some come with a glass carboy and others come with buckets. I started with the glass carboys, but quickly went back to buckets for practicality reasons. See blog post Fermentation Bucket Liners. Most of the Brewers Best brand kits are full extract and made for 5 gallons of beer (boiling water for an hour with either dry or liquid extract additions and hops). You can get by with what is called a “partial boil” where you are only boiling 2.5 gallons and adding cold water at the end. Some of the Brewers Best kits are extract plus steeping grains. This is slightly more complex than pure extract, but their instructions are clearly written and produce good beers. I’m still using some of the equipment I got with my kit. Well, plus my neighbors kits since they gave theirs to me.
In my opinion, a very good way to get started making beer
Not completely all grain, but in reality, you will be surpassing the taste of the macro-breweries from the get go and within a few batches, you might be producing better tasting beer than some of the national craft breweries.
More involved that Mr. Beer, but your steps will be what you will be doing throughout the rest of your brewing career/hobby.
If you have a LHBS, your best bet is to go there and talk to them. Make friends with them, as they will be one of your biggest sources of help in your brewing. If they aren’t helpful, then you either need to find another store or go to the internet for help. Every brewing supply store I have been to has employees that live to talk about beer and help others make it. Every store should have a variety of starter kits and be able to help you choose the right one for your needs. When you go in, don’t be intimidated by the towers of stainless kettles or the bearded guy with the body piercings. You should make it in and out with ease.
You will be meeting your new friends
You will feel more confident about the process after just having talked to someone at the store
You are probably already hooked on homebrewing before even leaving the store
Small batch starter kit
These Fun Size kits are actually pretty cool. For someone just getting started with brewing, this is a way to start with smaller size equipment that won’t go to waste when you get more advanced and start going to bigger batch sizes. Your LHBS might have these, or they could set you up with the stuff to put your own kit together and scale down some of their recipes for you.
So you know how much of a pain it is to clean and sanitize your carboy/bucket/conical after fermentation is complete? All that yeast residue, hop matter, etc? Well this is my method that has served me quite well the last 2 years and makes cleaning a piece of (yeast) cake.
The bags are also great to store your milled grain the night before brewday. Then re-use the bags for trash or spent grain.
When I say “bucket” in these instructions, I also mean carboy, conical, trash can, etc.
FDA Approved bag liner. See below for discussion….
Option 1 (new as of March 26, 2015)
An astute reader (see post comments) found another source on Amazon for another equivalent bag liner. I’ll pick up a case and update. They are much thinner (0.39 mil versus the 1.5 mil thick bags that I’ve been using). They are also about half the price. As of March 26, 2015, they were $26 for 250 ($0.10 / bag).
The link above is for the clear 40 gallon size, but they also have different capacities.
If you are an Amazon Prime member, this would be the way to go, since the cost of shipping can easily lower the cost/benefit ratio.
Here is a link to the manufacturers site and their quote about it’s food worthiness.
Hi D Tuff® liners are USDA and FDA Approved for direct food content, and implement a star seal bottom seal, the strongest, most reliable seal available utilizing pickets for wet material below the seal.
I went way larger than the 6.5 gallon size of my buckets
Only $2 more per box than the next size down
I went with the heavier 1.5 mil thickness bags
Despite the thickness, the bucket lid still seals just fine
I can even shake the fermenting bucket to oxygenate and it has never leaked
If you go to their website and click on “Additional Info”, it will list “FDA Compliant”
Made from Linear Low Density Polyethylene (LDPE)
Most fermentation buckets are made from High Density Polyethylene (HDPE)
I called them before ordering and they couldn’t tell me what “FDA Compliant” meant
Pre-Sanitized or sterilized?
I don’t know
I have always just pulled a new bag out and dropped it right in
Never had any off flavors
Never had any infections
As of 11/14/13 they are $51 for 250 bags
$0.20 / bag
Never had a bag leak
fully supported by bucket anyway
You can essentially make any container into a fermenter!
Mr. Obvious Directions:
Pull new bag out, put into fermenter, pour in wort
Then do everything you would normally do
When done, rack beer as you normally would
pull bag out, tie shut, put in trash
Directions with bonus material:
Get the bag and bucket ready
Bags are sturdy on the bottom
If you shake to oxygenate your wort, or you will be opening the lid before starting the fermentation, go directly to the next step. With the bag all the way to the bottom of the bucket, the rest of the bag COULD be pulled down all the way like this, but DON’T. I’ll get to that in a bit.
Leave a lot of the bag in the bucket
I went from shaking to oxygenate the wort, to an aquarium pump, back to shaking. Not great for my back, but this is my method for now. My point is, when you put the lid on, it does stretch the bag material and sometimes could put a hole in the bag and if you need to open the lid and reseal before starting fermentation, you may not get a good seal the next time. By leaving more bag in the bucket, after you open the lid, you can pull more fresh bag out and have a brand new seal.
Ready for the wort
My burner is at the perfect height where I just tip my kettle and pour it into the fermenter. By the time I need to lift it to pour the remaining wort, it only has about a gallon left.
Now the wort is in the bucket with the liner
If you are going to put the lid on to shake it or you need to put it in your keezer to get some extra temperature drop before pitching your yeast, go ahead and do so now.
Cut me some slack, Jack!
When you are ready to pitch your yeast and close the lid for the final time, grab the bag and pull up on it. Not enough to pull it out of the bucket, but just enough to pull the slack out of it and hopefully get rid of any potential air pockets between the bag and the walls of the bucket.
Keeping things neat and tidy
If you want, you can roll the excess bag up and then tie it into a knot.
When you are ready to rack to secondary or the keg or whatever, pop the lid and smell the awesomeness you just created.
Only the lid is messy
The lid has crud on it like usual or from the vigorous shaking you did prior to pitching the yeast.
Holes / Stretching I mentioned
See the stretching and potential holes in the bag? You only want these from the lid seal outward.
This is what’s left
Your usual yeast cake. Do notice how some sediment settles in the wrinkles of the bag. You really can’t prevent this, but it doesn’t mean you can’t have cleared beer. I’ve had some brilliantly clear beers. In my opinion, it’s all about giving it enough time to settle.
Pull the bag out
Here’s your yeast ready for washing, re-pitching, whatever
Check out that perfectly clean bucket!
And the rim is clean too
Not often, but occasionally due to the stretching of the bag or holes, I do get some beer on the lip only. Still, way easier to clean the lip than the entire bucket!
Congratulations! You just saved yourself a few minutes (if not more) of cleaning and sanitizing, plus the drying time.
February 7, 2014 Update
Ok, so even though I’ve been using the bags for over a year now, and my judgement was good enough for me, I thought I would get a second opinion.
Fortunately, it just so happened that on the Basic Brewing Radio podcast, James had recently done a couple episodes on Homebrew Toxicology.
I emailed James to get in touch with “Paul the Toxicologist” to get his opinion. Do not take this as a full endorsement from Paul or James, but just some cool homebrewers helping another homebrewer out.
Here is Paul’s response:
So on to your question about FDA compliant vs. Food Grade. There could be a difference, but it may just be semantics as well. Think “not all parallelograms are squares, but all squares are parallelograms”. FDA has a lot of regulations, so by saying it is FDA compliant does not mean it is food grade. But I would take it that if someone were to call a product food-grade, what they would mean is FDA compliant to the specific FDA regulations that deal with food contact materials.
That link also says FDA compliant but is more specific in that is says “FDA approved for food storage”. Again, this is not to say that the bags you are using aren’t the same. What would help is if Uline were to provide the specific regulation that is making them FDA compliant – this would tell you whether they are compliant to the food contact regulation. The reference you would be looking for is 21 CFR 177.XXXX, where the XXXX is another set of numbers that specifies the approval for that specific polyethylene.
A reference to the CFR citation will also help to figure out if your specific use (storing alcoholic beverages) is an approved use of the material. I took at look at one of the entries for polyethylene in 21 CFR 177.1630 (you can find it at the FDA search site as well http://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/cfrsearch.cfm). In this entry you will see that (according to part 21 CFR 177.1630 (f)(2)) that “The plastics are used for packaging, transporting, or holding food, excluding alcoholic beverages, at temperatures not to exceed 250 deg.”
So you can see that FDA compliant is a complicated statement, in that it isn’t a material that is approved for use, but instead it is a material for a specific use that is approved for use. This is based on the fact that the companies need to conduct migration testing to ensure that nothing hazardous migrates out of the plastic and into food under specific conditions. To be compliant with the FDA regulation, they only need to test situations that are water-based, and do not need to look at contact with alcohol (which is a different solvent and could leach out different compounds).
I just sent a note out to Uline that I used some of my regulatory-speak, I’ll let you know if I hear anything back from them.
So the bottom line is that if I had to guess, I would think that the Uline liners you have found (and likely all other similar liners you could find) are actually compliant with the FDA regulation for food contact. However, I would also suspect that they will indicate that they are not intended to be used in contact with alcoholic beverages, such as your intended use. So from a regulatory compliance standpoint, I have a feeling that you are not using those liners for an approved use.
That being said… I would also say that your risk of having things migrate into beer at a relevant concentration is pretty small. When I talked to the polymer toxicologist that I know, his advice was that if you are using a food-grade polyethylene that the starting materials that are used in their manufacture are almost all gone in the final product, leaving only long polymers that are not toxic. There could be some of these starting materials left over in trace amounts (monomers, catalysts, etc.), but anything that would migrate out of that plastic would be coming out under “approved” use. When you are using these bags under “non-approved” use, you are likely only going to be leaching out the same materials that would come out under the approved use, and therefore unlikely to be leaching out anything else with the alcohol that would increase the hazard of those liners.
So if you wanted a toxicological opinion, since you are using a food grade material (and a known material) it is a low risk from using those bags. If you listen to the podcasts, this is a similar explanation that I gave for the picnic cooler mash tun or jerry can no-chill wort chilling, they are all “non-approved” uses for food grade materials but are low risk.
Response from Uline
Thank you for contacting Uline Product Questions.
In response to your question about the S-13572, 24 X 33″ 12-16 Gallon 1.5 Mil Clear Trash Liners, these bags are approved for the bagging or packaging of containers of alcoholic beverages. They are also approved for containing or packaging of non-contained beverages. Unfortunately, there is no 21 CFR reference available and no migration testing has been done on this item.
In the 3rd installment of Homebrew Toxicology, they actually discuss my conversations with them. It’s the first topic they cover and it starts at about 5:30 into the podcast.
The fact that they are approved for containing “non-contained beverages” is good enough for me. I can certainly understand the legal ramifications of the word “approved”. As a company, I am assuming that they can only list a product as approved, if the actual test has been carried out to a certain standard. The FDA standard Paul referenced does however have the caveat “excluding alcoholic beverages”.
If you listen to the Basic Brewing Radio podcasts however, you will quickly understand that when it comes to food contact, it doesn’t seem to matter what is in contact with the plastic and at normal temperatures, if something is going to leach from the plastic into your food/liquid, it is going to happen anyway. So by that logic, I work out that if it is safe for generic beverages, it is safe for alcoholic beverages.
I just wanted to say a special thanks to James Spencer of Basic Brewing Radio and Paul “the toxicologist”. I appreciate the straightforward nature of the Basic Brewing podcasts and Paul for just being a cool guy willing to help other homebrewers and to dispel some of the myths and misconceptions withing the brewing community.
For what it’s worth, Paul also found these bags. Different size, but you can work out which size you want: