Category Archives: Woodworking

Refrigerator Conversion to Kegerator / Lagerator / Fermentation Cabinet

You know you’re a homebrewer when you have more refrigerators than people living in your house.  As of the time of this post, we have a combination of 8 refrigerators and freezers of different sizes to go along with 5 human habitants.

Difficulty: level_1

This project requires a few inexpensive special tools, but will most likely take an entire weekend, lots of improvisation, some thorough cleaning and the cost of the fridge takes it to level 4.

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Cost:

It all depends on what materials, tools and fridge cost is, but I would peg the average cost of this project at about $200 (including a second hand fridge).  I scored a fridge on Craigslist for $100.  The value for the fridge size I got is typically between $100-150.

Disclaimer / Caution:

If you are using a new-ish refrigerator, just keep in mind that we’ll be permanently be modifying it, so if there is any existing warranty, it will most certainly be voided by this project.

Posts for this Project:

Part 1: Introduction (This post)
Part 2: Clean up
Part 3: Disassembly
Part 4: Door modification
Part 5: Shelf building
Part 6: Finishing up and other observations

Introduction to this project:

Lagerator
Lagerator with 7 fermentation buckets

This will be my 5th conversion of a refrigeration appliance into a fermentation support device.  I started with my keezer, then converted two dorm fridges, followed by Lagerator III.  The last one was taken over by my wife for her cake decorating business Tiffany Takes the Cake.  Since I didn’t want to share the cake fridge with my fermenting lagers due to the potential of the cakes absorbing the sulfer odor of fermentation and the fact that I needed to manage the fermentation of seven 5-gallon batches of lager for our Strausstoberfest party, the need arose for yet another…

My initial pipe dream goal was to pull the guts from a cheap fridge and then fit them into a custom built cabinet meant to house many fermentation buckets, corny’s and anything you want to keep cool.

Time and the fact that I realized I could do it another way, convinced me to just find an ideal fridge on Craigslist and tear out the divider between the freezer and the fridge.  I also modified the doors to be one large full length door.

As this project sits currently, I can fit seven standard fermentation buckets in there at the same time, or the bottom shelf area is tall enough for a full size keg, corny’s and my large-ish 20# CO2 bottle with the regulator attached.

In this multi-part post, I’ll show you how my build went.

I also have not yet advanced the project to my ultimate goal of two separate temperature zones and some sort of BrewPi/remotely monitored and controlled setup.  For now, it’s just a single chamber with one of my homebuilt Arduino based temperature controllers.

Tools Required (or to make the job easier):

I would recommend that any serious DIY’er has every single one of the tools recommended for this project.  They are some of my most used tools.

  • hacksaw
  • set of assorted drill bits
  • miter saw
  • circular saw
  • handheld jig saw
  • hand drill

Less common, but equally important and useful tools:

A set of assorted screw, torx, hex, socket and screwdriver bits (all refrigerators are different).  The set shown above is the exact set i have and it’s served me well (cars, refrigerators, toys, electronics, etc…)

Tools - Tin snips

Tin Snips

If you don’t have a pair already, go ahead and get a set of three.  I was being cheap and only got one, but they some in sets of three that are optimized for cutting on different sides of material (left, right and center).  They are extremely useful.  In this project you’ll use them to cut the FRP board and the aluminum.  They are made for cutting sheet metal, but I end up finding many uses for them.

Tools - small prybar

Tack puller

I actually got this many years ago during a summer job prepping refrigerators for delivery.  I can’t tell you how many times I’ve found a use for this little tool.  This is a must in any handymans arsonal.

  • Pulling small nails out where a hammer would be cumbersome
  • Pulls staples out of the floor when converting from carpet to laminate or tile
  • Getting stubborn rivets out of holes
  • Pulling plugs out of holes
  • Trim pieces on cars
  • The list goes on…..

Tools - File set

File set

Again another worthwhile purchase that you’ll use over and over.  In this project they are used to clean up the cuts in the aluminum angle.

 

Tools - magnetic tray

 Magnetic Bowl

Also called “dog dishes” or “dog bowls”.  For some reason, I hadn’t ever seen these until I worked in racing.  I’ve got several in different shapes and sizes.  They are durable metal bowls with a strong padded magnet on the bottom.  The magnet serves two purposes.  One, to keep steel fasteners contained in the bowl.  Two, to serve as an attachment method to metal work surfaces.  I get lots of use out of mine.  If Ralphie’s Dad had one of these when changing the tire in A Christmas Story, he never would have gotten in trouble for saying “Ohhhhhh, Fuuuuddddggge!”  These have saved me many times from chasing screws all over the garage and under shelves.

 

1/4" nut setter

Nut Setter

I can’t even remember where I obtained this, but they come in different sizes and have a magnet in the tip to hold on to screws.  Why they insist on calling them “nut” setters is beyond me.  This will be used to drive sheet metal screws into the fridge and most likely will be the hex size for most fasteners in the fridge.

Supplies Needed:

  • 2×4 lumber to create support for shelves
  • Drywall screws (lots of them)
  • Plywood of your preference (I happened to have 1/2″ sitting around in just the size I needed)
  • Stain or some kind of waterproof sealant for the wood

duct tape : MacGyver :: 2×4’s and drywall screws : Me

Supplies - FRP Board

FRP Board (approx $25 for a 4’x8′ sheet)

If you can find plain plastic sheet, fine.  I just chose this because it seemed ideal for this project.  It’s easy to clean up and the textured surface has less resistance when sliding my fermenting buckets around in the fridge.  It’s just fiberglass and resin, so it won’t mold or mildew.  This will be used to replace the inner surface of the doors as well as the covering for the shelf.

aluminum angle

Aluminum Angle

You don’t have to get the exact size I purchased, but this happened to work out perfectly for my doors.  I used this to connect the freezer door to the refrigerator door and make one giant door.

Supplies - Sheet metal screws

Sheet Metal Screws

These will be used to secure the aluminum angle to the doors to make a one piece door.

Supplies - Shelving

Wire Shelving

I used this on the previous lagering fridge (now used for cakes).  It’s lasted over a year with no signs of rust.  They are painted or have a thin rubberized coating, so they shoudn’t rust unless you scratch the covering off or possibly on the ends where you cut it.  The piece I used was actually the other half of the full span shelving I used to make said prior lagering fridge.

 

Supplies - Acetone

Acetone

You should have this around your garage anyway.  It’s great to remove sharpie from glass or metal.  It is a prime (if not sole) component of nail polish remover.  It’s not lung or skin friendly, so make sure you wear gloves.  In this project, you’ll use it to remove your sharpie markings from the FRP board where you cut.  But be forewarned, acetone has a tendency to melt many kinds of plastic, so move quickly.

Nitrile Gloves

I use these all the time.  The link in the title is to the ones I purchase all the time from Harbor Freight.  They are a good value and are fairly durable.  I prefer the blue gloves, simply because when you do get grease and dirt on your gloves, you can tell and know not to touch anything clean.  Use these in this project when cleaning the fridge as well as when you are using the acetone.  I also prefer nitrile over latex, because with the latex gloves you are left with hands smelling like balloons.  Plus some people have or develop latex allergies.

Up next…

Cleaning

Posts for this Project:

Part 1: Introduction (This post)
Part 2: Clean up
Part 3: Disassembly
Part 4: Door modification
Part 5: Shelf building
Part 6: Finishing up and other observations

 

Super Easy Tap Handles

Ok, so the big party is two days away and you realize that in your months of planning down to the last detail, you actually forgot one important detail.

Beer…Check

Keezer cart…Check

New faucet system…Check

Method to actuate said faucet system…DOH!!!!

A weekend of brewing followed by 9+ weeks of TLC and lagering of your Oktoberfest beer.  This needed some representation.  A couple pairs of vice-grips were not going to work in this situation.

Difficulty: level_2

Time Required:

Once you have collected all of the supplies, about an hour max.  More if you are also going to paint and design your own labels.

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Cost:

Less than $10 for two tap handles

Required:

009-Brass Insert

3/8″-16 Brass threaded inserts

009-Spindle
1x wooden staircase spindle

Tools:

Chop saw or miter saw
Some sort of vice or clamping system
Hand drill and drill bits up to 1/2″

Insertion tool (optional if you plan ahead, not an option if only have days).  Make sure you get the 3/8″-16 version.  As of 5/31/14, the price was $10.99 at Rockler.

Insert_tool

 

Or there are T-handle designs

t-handle_insertion_tool

Alternately, you could use a 3/8″-16 threaded bolt and two corresponding nuts, which I also didn’t have on hand at the time of build.  If you are doing these often, I would get a tool.  If not, maybe make the call yourself on how MacGyver you want to get.

How it’s made:

Cut handles to length

First, you need to cut off the little nubbin on the end of your spindle (if applicable).

009-Spindle nubbin

Then, decide how long you want your tap handles to be and cut each of the fancy ends off of the spindle to your desired length.  Try to cut perpendicular to the spindles axis.  I used a quick clamp to hold it to my miter saw (basically because I had misplaced the super handy integrated clamp that went with the saw).

009-cutting spindle

Drill holes

Using your vice or whatever clamping system you fancy, get your tap handle secured for drilling.  If you are seriously cool and have a lathe or a drill press, go for it.  I tried a hole drilling jig, but the problem is that the spindles do not have nice constant diameter sections, which made squaring up the jig virtually impossible.

Drill progressively larger holes in the bottom end of the tap handle to work your way up to a 1/2″ hole.  If you have the means, I highly suggest you don’t drill off center as I have obviously done in these pictures.

009-drill bits

009-drill 1

009-drill 2

009-drill 3

Install the insert

009-install brass insert 1

009-install brass insert 2

November 2, 2014 update:  You’ll see further down alternate methods to install the insert.  This picture directly below shows my most recent “tool-less” method.  I use a standard 3/8-16 bolt along with a wing nut.  You thread the wing nut onto the bolt as shown, then also thread the brass insert almost fully onto the bolt.  Then tighten the wingnut to the brass insert.  You can then use this assembly to thread the insert into the tap handle.  When the brass insert is fully installed, just undo the wing nut and unthread the bolt.

009-alternate install method

Here is the “proper” method below:

Insert_tool

My initial MacGuyver method:

I don’t know how this worked out, but I needed something that would fit in the slot and help me screw the insert in.  I ended up using a cheapie wrench that came with some sort of put-it-together-yourself furniture.

These are hard to get started straight, so do your best. Usually they pull themselves straight after the first full thread or two. If not, you may want to back it out and start again.

009-install brass insert 3

NOTE: This is NOT the proper way to do this.  I just made do with what I had.  If you plan ahead, get an insertion tool or use the bolt method I mentioned above.

Getting the insert flush with the bottom takes a little extra “ingenuity”.

009-install brass insert 4

Finishing

Alright, so it’s functional at this point and you could go ahead and use it.  If you want to make it a little more presentable, you could sand and paint it and add labels.  For painting, I just used a 3/8″-16 bolt I had and used it as a handle while I spray painted.  You can also stain as I did on some other tap handles.  Before you apply your labels, I would suggest threading the tap handles onto the faucets and determine which orientation is best for not looking crooked.  If you drilled the holes by hand this is imperative.  If you drilled using a method that is guaranteed straight, proceed at will.

009-Ready to paint

The first year, I designed some labels and my crafty wife stained the handles, did the burned edge treatment on the labels and sealed them with some mod podge.

 

009-Stained tap handle

These are my painted versions for my Dunkel and Rye PA.

009-painted tap handles

There you have it folks.  Super easy tap handles.

 

Homer Hopper Part 6 – Final Assembly

Homer Hopper Part 6 – Final Assembly

Difficulty: level_1

Time Required:

One morning or afternoon (For the entire project)

Background:

This is part 6 in the series documenting how to create your own Homer Hopper.  If you haven’t seen the introduction yet, please check it out.  In this post, we’ll be finishing up with the assembly of all components and fitting the hopper assembly into the bucket.

Posts for this project:

Introduction
Part 2: Bucket Modifications
Part 3: Wooden Base
Part 4: Mill Box
Part 5: Funnel Panels
Part 6: Final Assembly (This post)
Part 7: CAD Drawings

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Tools required:

*You’ll want a bench top unit so you can hold the hopper assembly with both hands while you shape it to fit in the bucket.

Material recommended:

You’ll need all of the pieces you’ve built thus far and the bolts and washers mentioned in the introduction post

  • 4x 1/4-20 x 0.75″ length stainless socket head cap screws or hex head
  • 4x washers for 1/4″ bolts ($1-$5 for screws and washers depending on where you shop) *You don’t have to use stainless for the screws or washers, I just got stainless so they didn’t rust while being stored outside in the garage.

007a-Homer Hopper - Components

How to do it:

007b-Homer Hopper - front view

Go ahead and orient the bucket on the base.

007a-Homer Hopper - View 4

Then install the mill with the driveshaft sticking out the side window (obviously).

007c-Homer_Hopper_base_with_c-sink

007c-Homer_Hopper_hopper_base_no_c-sink

Then, secure the mill with the bolts going through the wooden base and bucket.  Since your holes probably aren’t precision located, get each bolt started in each hole, then tighten them up.

Shape the hopper panels

007f-Homer_hopper_shaping

Keep dropping the hopper assembly into the bucket while sanding more material off of the tips of the panels until you get a nice fit.  The angle will be almost perpendicular to the base, but with a slight draft.

007f-Homer_hopper_panel_fit

Once you have a nice fit with the panels, it’s time to start shaping the mill box to fit in the bucket.  The bottom of the bucket has a radius all the way around the bottom, so you’ll need to shape the bottom corners until you can get it all to sit flat.

007e-Homer_hopper_grain_shield_fitted

Your finished corners should look something like the picture above.

007f-Homer_hopper_base_seated

Keep shaping until the entire assembly sits completely flat on the bottom of the bucket.

Final steps

007f-Homer_hopper_glue_grain_shield

The last steps are to glue the seams in between the hopper panels (as in one of the above photos) and to glue the grain shield in place.

Wait for all glue to dry!!!!

The last thing you want is for wet glue to drip into your valuable grain mill or get into your grain.

Up next…

CAD drawings and closure

Missed a post?

Introduction
Part 2: Bucket Modifications
Part 3: Wooden Base
Part 4: Mill Box
Part 5: Funnel Panels
Part 6: Final Assembly (This post)
Part 7: CAD Drawings

Thanks for your interest in this project!