Homer Hopper Part 4 – Mill Box

Difficulty: 

Time Required:

One morning or afternoon (For the entire project)

Background:

This is part 4 in the series documenting how to create your own Homer Hopper.  If you haven’t seen the introduction yet, please check it out.  In this post, we’ll be making the mill box.

Posts for this project:

Introduction
Part 2: Bucket Modifications
Part 3: Wooden Base
Part 4: Mill Box (this post)
Part 5: Funnel Panels
Part 6: Final Assembly
Part 7: CAD Drawings

Affiliate Links

Tools required:

Jig saw Drill (optional) Table saw or miter saw (to cut the angles) Wood clamps (optional) Sanding device (belt sander, handheld, sandpaper)

Material recommended:

I started with some 3/4″ x 4″ pine I had from another project.  You’ll need about 26-30″ worth.  You’ll also want some wood glue or wood screws if you are too impatient for the glue to dry or don’t want to mess with clamps.

Link to CAD files & Templates

What we’re building here:

Video of the process:

COMING SOON!

How to do it:

You can print out the drawings or just use them for reference and measure out the old fashioned way. mill_box_adjust_side mill_box_drive_side mill_box_front_back Cut the wood to size.  You’ll want to use a miter saw or table saw to cut the angles.  The windows are obviously clearance for the adjustment knobs and the drive shaft.

I pre-drilled holes so I could use some wood screws to hold it together while the glue dried.

One thing you’ll notice is that with this mill box, it won’t fit over the thumb screws of the Monster Mill.  I actually replaced the thumb screws with some set screws in order to minimize the external features.  If you still like the thumb screws or you forgot or don’t have the set screws, you’ll need to cut clearance holes for them.

Up next…

Hopper Panels

Missed a post?

Introduction
Part 2: Bucket Modifications
Part 3: Wooden Base
Part 4: Mill Box (This post)
Part 5: Hopper Panels
Part 6: Final Assembly
Part 7: CAD Drawings

Thanks for your interest in this project!

Homer Hopper Part 3 – Wooden Base

Difficulty: 

Time Required:

One morning or afternoon (For the entire project)

Background:

This is part 3 in the series documenting how to create your own Homer Hopper.  If you haven’t seen the introduction yet, please check it out.  In this post, we’ll be making the wooden base.

Posts for this project:

Introduction
Part 2: Bucket Modifications
Part 3: Wooden Base (this post)
Part 4: Mill Box
Part 5: Funnel Panels
Part 6: Final Assembly
Part 7: CAD Drawings

Affiliate Links

Tools required:

Jig saw
Drill with 5/16″ drill bit, maybe a 3/8″ or 1/2″ for starter holes for saw
Sanding device (belt sander, handheld, sandpaper)

Material recommended:

5/8″ plywood, big enough for 14″ diameter. You can go thinner or thicker.  Use scrap wood or find a 24″x24″ square for maybe $10 at the hardware store.  I used some nice birch, but only because I had it around.

Link to CAD files & Templates

What we’re building here:

Video of the process:

COMING SOON!

How to do it:

First, print out the entire Hopper Base print or just the Window Template only.  I’ve put centerlines on the print so you can line them up with the center of the base more easily.

First cut your wood to size.  Basically a 14″ diameter circle.  Optional is the flat cut on the side.  This is to allow easier access to the drill chuck when setting up.  I started with a full round circle and then modified it later.  I prefer the flat side.

Next you’ll mark out the window and through hole locations on the base.  I drilled 5/16″ holes to give me more clearance, since my woodworking skills are not CNC accurate.  Also, go ahead and drill some starter holes for the jig saw.  Just make sure you choose a size larger than your saw blade.

Now you have a choice.  Do you want counter sunk holes or do you not mind the bolt heads sticking out.  I wanted the hopper to be able to sit completely flat on the ground or shelf when I stored it.  And if the bolt heads are sticking out, you run the risk of putting scratches on your storage shelf.

If you don’t mind the bolt heads sticking out or you don’t have a router, you’re done.  Otherwise, get out your router.  I just used a 7/8″ square bit set at a plunge depth of 3/8″.  That size and depth gives you enough room for the 1/4″ washers and the bolt to be completely recessed with room to spare.  It will take a steady hand to create counterbores with the router and it may not necessarily be the safest.  If you have a drill press, more power to you!

Up next…

Mill Box

Missed a post?

Introduction
Part 2: Bucket Modifications
Part 3: Wooden Base (This post)
Part 4: Mill Box
Part 5: Hopper Panels
Part 6: Final Assembly
Part 7: CAD Drawings

Thanks for your interest in this project!